
Cloudy Bay opens up before me like a grey and blue panorama of ghosts. The air is thick with the past and yet the purity and freshness of the place literally seems to steal my breath as old people will say a cat can do to a baby. To turn behind you, nothing but the sea grasses, and low bushes of the headlands, hissing as the wind snakes through it, before you nothing but the pounding ocean, jutting rocks and further off whistling sounds of the 'roaring forties' amid the rookeries of sea-birds. On either side mountainous headlands, not a human-soul or human dwelling in sight. This place is a sacred place for the Nuenonne people, native to Bruny Island. The majority of those people have gone beneath the surface of the land and waters now, but the veil is so very thin still. I inhale their lives and stories in the sea-mist that congregates around us. I eat them in the shell-fish of this place, where they suffered their sea-change. Nothing seems vanished, absent, I stare out to sea and the waves pound out the beating heart of the island.
A spirit of the bush, that rises some nights out of a languid water-hole, full of river-weed and stories of spirit wallaby, told me to come to the island. The people where I live used to come to Bruny, once a year to hunt mutton birds and swap girls for marriage with the tribe across the water. As I stand here I can almost see their camp-fires and hear their celebrations ring out late into the night, smell the mutton bird cooking. The story of why the water-hole man wants me to come here is all spinning into being around me. Inside a rock I picked up, out of the roaring sound inside a shell I put to my ear, whispering through the flax. Stories of a slumbering serpent that slept inside the island during part of the year and woke around mutton bird season, to uncoil it's giant being, rise up from water as shadow, as moving grasses, and snake across the land that the old people called Loetrowitter. It makes sense to me that I have to come here to bring together the story of things. I am following the story-lines back to one of their sources, asking the wind there to make the hollow noises through me it makes in the flax and in the sea shell. So that I can know where I am.
I thought I came here looking for Worreddy, the last 'clever man' of the local area and what I found instead of Worreddy was the beating heart of his land. The Land Serpent itself, hissing me into near trance as I stand quite still and a new appreciation for all the powers that have answered me since I first came here. The Grandmotherly woman with her possum skins and her basket who I met one day as she climbed to let the moon out of her basket and pack away the sun. The great Father of the Eucalyptus whose face came out of the mountain and into my life. The trixter spirit with the crow's wings who leaps up and down the sheer rock face. The Flame in the Mountain, the Lady of Obsidian through whom light passes darkly and who opens doors in rainbows. These and the water-hole man and the little girl of the cave. These spirits have made me welcome and better yet made me native to the place. Meanwhile other things are here too, something like yell-hounds, or cwn annwn, race across the land in Winter, I've heard them near their dens behind the old cemetary I used to wander in and known of their presence when I moved myself across those spirit-roads at night. So many things seethe in creative chaos now in this land, along with all the blood of the children of Europe, dogs, horses, rabbits, roots of oak tree and two hundred years of spells and charms brought here by the English and Irish alike.
Here we don't yet have in the material world any traditions of sorcery like Hoodoo, but under the surface we have a similar reality of meeting powers. And in my own practice, as I discover the roots and herbs of this land, the animal bones, the shells, the minerals and learn them, learn what they meant to the old people, or what they meant European settlers who used them in the early nineteenth century, (1) and add them to my tools of European cunning, something new is emerging. Perhaps in this way the conjury of the Mississippi has something to share with us down here on the extra-southern New World.
Van Diemen's land was "for a time a land where many dressed in kangaroo skins without linen and wore sandals made of seal skins. They smelt like foxes. They lived in 'bark huts like the natives, not cultivating anything, but living entirely on kangaroos, emus, and small porcupines'. No less an authority than John West, the first official editor of the Herald, wrote in 1856 that whites living outside of the settlement 'had a way of life somewhat resembling that of the Aborigines'." (2) It seems impossible given this history that I am the first person to begin this process. It is as Richard Flanagan (Tasmania's favourite literary son) says a 'terrible, beautiful history' which at times begins to feel like a Heart Of Darkness journey into madness, and then you take a breath and step back from the shadows for a moment, casting your eyes on the great mountain and the play of light and darkness it creates and you have to accept Her for what she is somehow.
When I got to a high spot on Bruny and could turn back to look at the main island, my home, across the water I felt I understood Her better and I thank the beautiful, untouched island across the water from us for it's visions before recrossing. Before I leave I spend a thoughtful, long time looking out in the directions of the shell-middens that are the only mark, or scarring on the earth that this land's previous occupants left to remind the future of their lives, and I wish that the evidence of my physical life could be swallowed so completely one day, vanish so utterly, so softly, into Her.
1: The Almanac of William Allison 1821, archives of Tasmania
2. Extract from a speech given by Richard Flanagan at the launch of Boyce's 'Van Diemen's Land'
Pictured: The cairns of Adventure Bay, Bruny Island.








